http://cms.co.ke/[/quote]
@Tuvok,

Appreciated...

I don't drive one... but (others will contribute)

++++
Affordable running costs: spares, fuel

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Pretty light - 1050kg

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR: This lets the computer know how far you press the accelerator pedal down. It often has a wide open throttle and a closed throttle switch either as part of it or as separate components.
FAILURE SYMPTOMS: Hesitation on quick acceleration (passing, "floorboarding it") , sometimes bad idle. May not illuminate light or set codes.

@Sihingwa: Did you have the problem diagnosed with a proper machine? The problem could have been caused proberbly not by the sensor but by the coolant temperature circuit. The temeperature sensor could be okay but the circuit could be having a short! Disconnecting the wires from the sensor is not advisable because the computer uses the signal from this sensor to determine critical factors such as air/fuel mixture, and timing advance. I highly doubt if is is acomputer problem but again this problem can only be solved once the vehicle is properly checked!

1. The boiling of the coolant out of its recovery reservoir was a correct indicator of overheating.
2.You tested the resistance what was the resistance at 100 degrees celcius?
3. The third sensor only only works out of the engine block- this is a clear indicator that there could be a short in the sensor circuit which could even be causing the sensor failure.

Another item to check is the fan relay which could be bad.

Again there are several ways to know if the coolant temperature sensor is malfunctioning, if the sensor is bad it will trigger a trouble code and the check engine light in the dashboard will come on, you can retrieve the engine code and see if it is related to the coolant temperature sensor, even if the engine control computer doesn't store a trouble code, there is another way to suspect a bad coolant temperature sensor : If your vehicle starts using more fuel than usual, starts having trouble starting when the engine reaches normal operating temperature or you notice black smoke coming out from the exhaust tail pipe, it is very likely that these symptoms are related to a bad coolant temperature sensor.

@ McReggae,

Was about to take my car for diagnostics, but now am getting second thoughts. Your problem implies that computer diagnostics cannot pinpoint a problem at 100% accuracy...

Hey Digitali, I still got your number will keep in touch!!!!

@moreinfo: The error P0170 is a generic code which means that your fuel/air mixture has issues. There is need to analyse the output of the various sensors which could be the cause of wrong signals hence the burning rich situation in the car. In such a case you will realise high consumption fuel consumption. There is need to check all the the oxygen sensors if your car has two. Have their outputs measured using a scan tool before you change them. It is important also to check Mass airflow sensor ouputs to confirm that they are within range.

@Mjuaji Mkubwa oh Sorry! wa stock
Thanks for your querryies
1. We charge Kshs 3,000 for a complete diagnosis.

2. We check the engine, the gear box and body wiring depending with the car make and the year of manufacture. Newer cars have more subsystems which can be checked with the scanner.

3.Ciiiiikichikichikich ..ka.. dddd sounds like squeeking and pouding! 2 reasons No 1. shuma mbiri lazima zinakurana hence the squeeking!check the boot hinges could be touching the body. no. 2 something not tight hence the pounding! Check the lock whether it is tight or appropriate adjustments need to be done for it to be firm!

Am sorry the computer cannot detect any panel beating isues or defects! those can only be handled with anyundo.

the light in the dashboard can be fixed it could just be a wiring issue!

@Mjuaji wa Stocks

Your problem is simple if you just recently replace the pads then it seems that your mechanic did not do the bleeding properly
This problem is usually caused by air getting into the brake fluid area, usually from the master cylinder. As the brake pads wear, the caliper pistons ride farther out of the caliper, allowing more fluid to remain in the calipers. Over time this can add up to almost as much fluid as there is in the master cylinder reservoir. If neglected, this will allow the master cylinder to pump some air into the brake lines. Air is very compressable, whereas brake fluid is not, as long as there is a solid stream of brake fluid between the master cylinder piston and the caliper piston, the brake pedal will be nice and firm. If there is air in the system, the pedal will feel spongy and will go down almost all the way to the floor, maybe all the way, depending on how much air is in the system. So you need bleeding to be done.

The diagnosis machine can check the ABS system which prevents the wheels from locking up when breaking hence avoiding skeeding and improving drivers control of the vehicle.The ABS system also helps in improved stoping distance since it manages the hydraulic pressure applied on each wheel.